Retinoids are one of the most talked-about ingredients in skincare, and for good reason.
They’re known for treating a variety of skin concerns, from acne and ageing to scars and dark spots. With their scientifically proven ability to make visible changes to our skin, it’s no wonder they are considered a gold standard in skincare.
But using them isn’t without its challenges. It’s true, after all, that retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, be harsh on sensitive skin, and even cause initial breakouts (what’s known as a retinol ‘purge’).
To help us understand this ingredient a little bit better, we spoke to Dr Ambi Sud, a doctor at Software, who helped us create an easy guide to retinoids, including how they work and what science says about their effectiveness.
What are retinoids?
“Retinoids are a group of compounds derived from vitamin A, an essential nutrient that supports vision, cell growth, and reproduction. In dermatology, retinoids have been widely used since the 1970s, particularly for treating acne,” Dr Sud explained.
“The retinoid family includes different types of vitamin A, such as retinol, retinal, retinyl ester, and retinoic acid. While ‘retinoids’ often refer to medical-grade skincare products, it’s essential to understand the distinctions within this group.”
How do retinoids work?
Retinoids need to be converted into retinoic acid by the body to become effective. The conversion process can reduce the strength of non-medical-grade retinoids.
According to Dr Sud, once converted, retinoic acid binds to receptors in our cells, initiating several beneficial processes:
- Accelerates skin cell proliferation: Retinoic acid promotes the replication of genes and DNA, speeding up the production of fresh new skin cells and helping your skin look more radiant.
- Increases shedding of corneocytes. These cells make up the outermost layer of the skin and can contribute to a ‘dull’ appearance. This process also helps contribute to a more radiant-looking complexion.
- Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Over time, collagen production can be stimulated. Collagen is a protein that contributes to the elasticity and firmness of the skin.
- Reduces blemishes. Retinoids can help bring budding acne lesions to a head by bringing them to the skin’s surface. This may cause initial purging, which eventually calms down to reveal smoother, clearer skin.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a type of vitamin A within the retinoid family, commonly found in over-the-counter skincare products like creams, lotions, and serums. It is the strongest form of vitamin A available without a prescription.
Why use retinol or retinoids?
“Both retinol and retinoids promote skin cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and can reduce inflammation. These properties make them effective treatments for acne, fine lines, and wrinkles, and may be beneficial for other skin issues such as melasma,” Dr Sud explains.
Benefits of medical-grade retinoids
- Customised dosage: Prescribed by a doctor based on your specific skincare needs.
- Shelf-stable packaging: Medical-grade retinoids come in protective packaging to maintain their potency.
- Combination treatments: Retinoids may be used alongside other medical treatments for more comprehensive skincare solutions, but this should be discussed with your doctor.
- Professional guidance: You’ll get expert advice to ensure retinoids are right for you and suggest alternatives if needed.
Benefits of over-the-counter retinol
- Variety: Available in various forms like serums, moisturisers, and oils.
- Gentler formula: Suitable for those who prefer a milder treatment, or for sensitive and dry skin types.
- Alternatives: There are also options like bakuchiol for those who can’t use retinoids.
Are there any side effects?
“Common side effects of retinoids include redness, dryness, itching, and flaking, especially when first incorporating these products into your routine. This usually subsides as your skin adjusts,” said Dr Sud.
“Initially, you may also notice what’s called a ‘retinol purge’, where your acne flares up before it gets better. This is normal and not a reason for concern.”
Additionally, increased skin cell turnover makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, so using SPF is crucial.
How to use vitamin A in your skincare routine
Retinol
Apply retinol once a day, typically at night, due to increased sun sensitivity. Always follow with broad-spectrum sunscreen in the morning to protect against UV rays.
Prescription-strength retinoids
Your doctor will instruct you on how to use prescription retinoids. However, generally, you’ll be advised to start by applying them once a week, gradually increasing as your skin builds tolerance. Apply only at night and use SPF during the day.
Tips for using both retinoids and retinol
- Take breaks if irritation occurs, then resume less frequently once irritation has settled.
- Apply to dry skin after cleansing to minimise irritation.
- Use the ‘sandwich method’ by layering moisturiser before and after retinoid application to reduce dryness.