Zion National Park is one of the oldest and most famous national parks in the United States, welcoming about five million visitors annually.
First discovered by Mormon pioneers in the 1860s, its first visitors were so amazed by its natural beauty that they named it after the Old Testament name for the city of Jerusalem.
I arrived at Zion after a whirlwind weekend in Las Vegas, just a few hours’ drive away, but an entirely different world. From the bright lights, loud noises, and vibrant nightlife of the City of Sin, I exhaled with relief and tranquility upon arriving at this special place.
Hours before you reach the town of Springdale, a south-western nature preserve nestled at the heart of the mountains of Zion, you witness the captivating landscape with its red earth, multilayered mountain ranges, and cactus-filled desert earth.
Things to do in Zion National Park
As you’d probably expect, hiking is one of the main reasons people travel to this historic park. One unique feature of Zion is the prohibition of private vehicles inside the park, which protects the flora, fauna, and serene atmosphere.
You can park your car at the park entrance, paying a fee additional to the park entry rates. Alternatively, if you’re staying nearby, free shuttle buses run regularly between Springdale and the park.
Either way, prepare for stunning scenery, dusty boots, and sightings of local wild turkeys, squirrels, chipmunks, and other adorable wildlife that thrive without the influx of tourist vehicles.
Angels Landing Trail
The first item on my Zion bucket list was the famous Angels Landing hike. This trail, previously called the Temple of Aeolus, is a 1488-foot (454 metre) tall rock formation. Thanks to its steep elevation, slippery ledges, and steep drop-offs, it’s classified as a difficult or strenuous hike.
This hike is not recommended for children, people with serious health conditions, or those with a strong fear of heights. After a challenging ascent up 21 switchbacks and minor scrambling, many hikers end their hike at Scouts Lookout.
When I arrived, this spot was also fondly called ‘purgatory,’ with people seated to rest and watch as those wishing to take on the trail’s final and most challenging part.
The journey from Scouts Lookout to Angels Landing involves walking along a narrow stone fin or ‘sky bridge’ to a gorgeous lookout point with 360-degree views. This final section has chain rails for safety, but the trail gets very busy, even after introducing a permit system to help manage safety and numbers on the trail.
My stomach dropped when I arrived at Scouts Lookout and saw what I was in for. But I’d signed up to do this hike months prior through the trail’s lottery system, so I would at least give it my best shot. The final climb was slow, as you often have to stop to allow people to pass you on their descent, and it’s not wise to rush.
While this hike isn’t for everyone, the spectacular views at the apex were worth it for me, as was the satisfaction of challenging my fitness and dislike of heights. Surprisingly, I felt little fear during the hike as I focused on putting one foot in front of the other.
Overall, if you’re in generally good health and fitness, I highly recommend giving this amazing trail a go. If you stop at Scouts Lookout, you’ll still be treated to an amazing park vista, and you certainly won’t be alone in making a wise choice about where to end your trek.
Other iconic trails in Zion
There is no shortage of spectacular trails and walks in Zion, catering to all ages and fitness levels. Some trails, like the renowned Narrows, were closed due to weather conditions during my visit, but this came as a relief after tackling Angels Landing on my first day.
I spent my final few days enjoying easier-to-moderate hikes like the Pa’rus Trail and the Lower and Middle Emerald Pools. While some pre-planning is required if you want to tackle the busier hikes, you will also have a great time if you choose to play it by ear.
Hire an e-bike
The shuttle buses are regular and convenient, and the drivers are knowledgeable and helpful in getting you where you need to go. However, they are also very busy, and I often found I had to stand, which would have been fine if my legs weren’t trembling with fatigue.
If you want a break from the buses, I highly recommend finding a place to rent an e-bike and explore the park at your leisure. Zion’s central park is relatively small; we easily rode the entire distance from our lodge and back again within a few hours, stopping for breaks, visiting the Human History Museum, and strolling along shorter trails.
If you ride through the park, note that the shuttle buses will only pass you once you stop and pull over to the side of the road for your safety. Also, even if you are visiting during a warmer month, don’t forget to bring warm layers. I made the mistake of skipping a jacket when I set off for my bike ride. Riding through the enormous canyons that shut out any sunlight left me shivering and racing to find the next sunny spot to warm up.
Drive through the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel
If you need a break from trekking, rent a car and drive through the historic tunnel directly connecting Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon, and Zion National Parks. You’ll be treated to stunning views of the canyons along the dark drive with regular openings along the side of the mountain.
The tunnel’s construction began in the late 1920s and was completed in 1930. At the time of completion, it was the longest tunnel of its kind in the United States.
Where to eat and drink in Zion National Park
When I booked the trip, I anticipated limited options for plant-based dining, but I didn’t know that I’d also be there while having to cut out gluten for medical reasons. While my options were limited, I did find a few go-tos that kept me fuelled for my stay.
I found a great menu at Thai Sapa, just a few shuttle stops from the park. The restaurant offers a handful of great vegan and gluten-free options, including fried rice, a sizzling fajita fusion dish, and a delicious pad Thai. The staff were really helpful with my dietary requirements, and the chef handmade her tofu from scratch, which was a delight and relief to find some quality protein sources.
We also had a lovely Mexican meal at Oscar’s Cafe, a delicious coffee, breakfast burrito, and a raw caramel slice at FeelLove Coffee.
The Bit and Spur was an adorable saloon offering south-western vibes and Mexican fusion fare. We went in hoping to have a post-dinner drink but learned that restaurants in Utah prohibit serving alcohol unless you order food.
If you want a beer or a cocktail, I recommend checking out Cowboys & Angels Speakeasy and Cocktail Parlor. It has a gorgeous interior and friendly staff who made us some delicious and surprisingly powerful drinks after a particularly hot and strenuous day of walking.
Image credit: La Quinta by Wyndham.
Places to stay in Zion National Park
Several accommodation options surround the park, primarily located in the main town of Springdale. The only place to stay within the park itself is the Zion National Park Lodge, but get in early if this is your preference, as it books out quickly.
We opted to stay just up the road, a short shuttle ride or walk to the park’s entry at a three-star hotel operated by La Quinta by Wyndham Hotels, which was more than comfortable enough for our four-night stay.
Depending on how close you want to be to the park, the amenities you’re after, and how long you’re staying, there are plenty of hotels, lodges, and glamping options. We did note that the price point was pretty high, but this seemed to align with generally high costs for accommodation throughout the US.
Getting to Zion National Park
We opted to drive to Zion National Park from Vegas, which many locals and tourists do, as it’s a large airport with many flights daily. If you want a shorter commute and to skip the chaos of Vegas, the closest airport is St George International Airport, about an hour’s drive from the park.
If you’re keen to see more of Utah, Salt Lake City Airport is about a four-drive from Zion, with lots of gorgeous sights and towns to see along the way.
Whichever way you arrive, you’ll be greeted with gorgeous mountain peaks and valleys through the canyons along the way, providing a sense of being somewhere ancient and special, which will stay with you long after you leave.
